Review Cactus Flower Cafe/Cafe Capistrano, Pensacola News Journal:

Kenneth E. Lamb

News Journal Correspondent

As soon as we parked in front of the Cactus Flower Cafe, we thought to ourselves, "90 percent of Pensacola can't be wrong." We found every seat taken and a line snaking out of the door. Trust me on this: make reservations for dinner; for lunch, arrive early. But if you're feeling dicey, walk-ins are encouraged, if you are willing to chance a wait. We returned, with dinner reservations, two nights later.

In short order, we understood why departing patron Janet Behrens of Pensacola said she eats there weekly. "The food is good, it's always fresh, and their flan," Behrens said, referring to the egg custard and caramel sauce specialty that made Tampa's Ybor City famous, "is out of this world." And owner Lee Kafeety tells stories at patrons' tables so funny she can star on "Saturday Night Live'' any night she chooses, but more on that in a minute. Millie Thomas served us with a smile and delightful personality. She started at Cactus Flower the day it opened, with a style as elegant and sophisticated as any graduate of L'Academie de Cuisine in Washington, D.C.

We ordered as advised: fresh guacamole for an appetizer, a quesadilla and a chimichanga. No one leaves Cactus Flower hungry. Overflowing portions provided another two meals during the week. Before dessert, Kafeety and her partner, Joni DeRome, joined us at our table. Entertaining, riveting, hilarious, snappy and sharp ... all describe the repertoire of moods from Kafeety and DeRome. It was a tour de force, keying a restaurant's success to the irrepressible personalities the owners serve up along with each meal. The decor is San Francisco's Nob Hill transplanted to Pensacola. For those who miss the Pacific coast, submerge yourself in the Cactus Flower's mellowing environs. The combination of color, style, hanging art and furniture perfectly recreate the Hill's minimalist, yet world conscience, interior design preferences.

Now for the creme de la creme of the Cactus Flower experience: dessert. The Cactus Flower's signature desserts - flan and Mexican wedding cake - are without peer. The menu best describes the cake, saying, "Moist, white cake soaked in sweetened creams, topped with real whipped cream (made in our kitchen) and drizzled in raspberry sauce." So, what time this weekend should they reserve for your party?